How To Wash Out Bleach & Hair Color Chemicals

Have you ever started drying the hair after washing out a chemical and noticed at the nape, occipital, or crown that there is a little patch of residual color that wasn't fully washed out and now is partially dried into the hair?

This is a common salon scenario, I have gone through this experience myself multiple times as a client, and as a stylist, and it almost always sets the service timing back leading to running behind for the next appointment. Sometimes the dread of running behind often leads stylists and assistants to overlook the issue and try to conceal the semi-dried chemical with a styling product.

Why is this a common occurrence?

Washing hair is way more difficult than it looks, ask anyone who is being taught how to wash someone what their reality versus expectations is like for them. Everyone experiences some shock at how difficult it is not to soak yourself and your client, all the while trying to remove a chemical and provide a relaxing experience. The conditioners make it particularly tricky to keep that hose & nozzle palmed.

Day after day I would watch students in the class ahead of me lose control of the hose, and panic while the hose with its snake-like movements whipped clients with water as it snaked back into the stationary position which then shot water directly at the stylist standing above it, the most common response from stylists was to block the flow with their hands, essentially diffusing the water everywhere (especially on the client) instead of just shutting off the water. I remember thinking JUST SHUT OFF THE WATER YA DONUT! Until my turn came... And I had the same response. Standing there with my feather earrings plastered to the side of my face, a soaked client I was slightly humiliated, and I realized I was the judgmental donut, and washing hair and controlling the process is harder than it looks. It's also back-breaking work!

Should chemical service washes have the same workflow and timing as a haircut service wash?

Many stylists work in time blocks that do not allow them to take their time washing out the chemical to the degree that is needed blocking as little as 10 minutes, when the reality is sometimes it takes 30 + mins depending on the service. Many stylists work multiple appointments in the same time block and some stylists assign the assistant the work of washing & styling the client and do not wrap back around to notice that the chemical wasn't washed out properly.

Every service is different and that's why I can't say something like bleach = X wash time. However, in this article, I will outline THE STEPS I use for washing color & lightening chemicals out, your timing will vary depending on your service and the chemical you are using.

Variables we need to consider:

We are working with multiple variables, heat, humidity, shampoos, bond protectors, conditioning agents, all considered chemicals. Many stylists are doing a double or triple process, they plan on toning and adding in a bond protector after working with bleach-filled foils and a color in between them. All these techniques add more variables. Processes like these add multiple chemical mixtures to the hair and environment. Unwanted hazardous interactions most often happen when chemical mixtures that shouldn't be mixed together overlap.

How to avoid unwanted chemical interactions:

#1 Check the MSDS of the products you are using in service. Not just the box recommendations, for remarks on what chemicals and products to avoid when using the chemical. Shampoo, conditioners, bond protectors, and masks, all have MSDS's and are considered most often hazardous chemicals that should not be mixed with other products. (Check out the Do Not Heat article for more info and examples)

#2 Book yourself enough time for your chemical service and establish a workflow for each type of chemical service (The Hair Hugs salon Job Task Cards help establish steps to your service and create a safe workflow)

For specific chemical services, always follow the product’s MSDS guidelines or recommendations for aftercare. This will ensure the safety and efficacy of the process, and help maintain hair health.

Remember, the primary goal is to ensure that all chemical residues are completely removed from the hair and scalp to prevent ongoing chemical reactions, irritation, or damage to the hair. For specific products, consulting the manufacturer's guidelines or safety data sheets can provide more detailed instructions.

1. Duration of Washing:

   - The time spent on rinsing hair should be sufficient to thoroughly remove the chemical product. This usually means continuing to rinse until the water runs clear. For some treatments, this might take several minutes.

   - The actual duration can vary depending on the type of treatment, the amount of product used, and the hair's length and thickness.

2. Number of Shampoos:

   - The number of shampoo applications can vary based on the type of chemical treatment. For stronger chemicals or treatments that deeply penetrate the hair (like permanent color or straightening treatments), more than one shampoo cycle is necessary.

   - Using a clarifying pre-chemical shampoo can be particularly effective for removing build-up and chemical residues. However, clarifying shampoos should be used judiciously (pre or post) as they can be more stripping to the hair and could interact with other chemicals put on the hair after the shampoo.

   - For gentler treatments, a single, thorough shampooing might be sufficient.

3. Follow-Up Conditioner + Bond Protector Additives:

   - After shampooing, it's often recommended to use a conditioner to help restore moisture and pH balance to the hair, especially after using alkaline chemicals like ammonia or MEA.

If you are using a bond treatment first check the MSDS of chemical you are mixing the additive with and also the conditioner's MSDS to see if it can be mixed (overlapped) with a bond protector. Even though bond protectors are typically marketed to be used with all color lines, many MSDS's say to not add anything to their chemical mixture.

Tip * We use Hairstory New Wash formulas to cleanse and condition the hair, using one product at the wash and condition stage just reduces the amount of chemical mixture overlap that could potentially happen. We typically do 2-3 washes with a rinse in between each in replacement of the traditional wash and condition steps above.

 New Wash is pH stabilized and leaves the hair feeling balanced, never stripped. If you do a lot of chemical services New Wash helps detangle and majorly preserves the color. New Wash has transparent ingredients and that is why we at The Hair Hug use and recommend it. You can get set up with Hairstory and try it here!

Many clients comment on the wash being their favorite part of a hair service. Why do people enjoy it so much?

Touching someone's head is a serious thing. Very rarely do adults have their head touched, babies have their heads touched often, and it's my opinion that we as service providers often mimic or emulate those sensations of safety & care when we touch our client's cranial. I personally think that's why many clients unburden themselves when they are in our chairs, the safety they feel from our caring non-judgemental touch. We are the few that have the privilege to be so close to someone's energy, mind, & physical brain. We must touch with respect and caring intention if our purpose is to soothe and relax.

What temperature should I use for washing out chemicals?

The temperature of the water used to rinse out hair chemicals like ammonia, bleach, MEA, and toluene is an important consideration for both effectiveness and hair health. Generally, lukewarm water is recommended for several reasons:

1. Hot Water:

- Hot water can cause the hair cuticle to open, which might aid in the removal of some types of chemicals. However, it can also increase the risk of hair damage and irritation to the scalp.

- Hot water might accelerate the chemical reaction of some products, potentially leading to unexpected results or increased damage to the hair.

- It can also be more drying to the hair and scalp, stripping away natural oils.

- Hot water can cause chemical steam and harmful vapors.

2. Lukewarm Water:

- Lukewarm water is usually the safest and most effective choice. It helps to gently rinse away chemicals without the risks associated with hot water.

- This temperature is less likely to cause further irritation or damage to the hair and scalp, especially after a chemical treatment.

3. Cold Water:

- While cold water can be less effective at removing chemical residues, it can help to seal the hair cuticle after the chemicals have been thoroughly rinsed out, adding shine and smoothness to the hair.

4. Chemical-Specific Instructions:

- Always refer to the specific instructions provided with each chemical product. Some products might have particular temperature recommendations for optimal results and safety.

In summary, lukewarm water is generally the best choice for rinsing out hair chemicals. It balances effectiveness in removing chemical residues with the need to protect the hair and scalp from excessive heat or damage, and will generally not heat up the chemical past a limit that it should not be heated.

Now a little bit more information on the activity duration and removal of MEA & Ammonia:

How long MEA can stay active in the hair?

Activity Duration of MEA in Hair

The duration for which MEA remains active in hair depends on several factors like the hair’s porosity, the concentration of MEA in the product used, and the duration for which the product was left on the hair.

Generally, once the hair is rinsed and the product is removed, the chemical reaction should stop. However, some residue may remain, and this is where thorough washing is crucial.

It's important to follow the specific product instructions and recommendations for aftercare when using treatments containing MEA. Additionally, consulting with product manufacturers or chemical safety data sheets can provide more specific information regarding the handling and removal of MEA from hair.

Removing MEA from Hair

   - MEA, due to its larger molecular weight, might not penetrate the hair shaft as deeply as smaller molecules. However, it can still reside on the hair surface or within the outer layers.

   - Thorough washing and rinsing are essential. Using a clarifying shampoo that is designed to remove build-up can be effective. These shampoos typically contain surfactants that can help in breaking down and washing away chemical residues.

   - In some cases, a chelating shampoo might be recommended. These are specially formulated to remove not just dirt and oil, but also mineral deposits and chemical residues from the hair.

These are the chemical recommendations to remove MEA from the hair after a chemical service, this advice is pretty contradictory to what we are taught in hair institutes, which is to use a gentle, non-stripping shampoo for chemical services. It begs the question, is it even worth it to use a chemical mixture with MEA in it if you need to use a strong stripping chemical shampoo that may compromise the work the stylist just did, just to properly remove that MEA?

How long can ammonia stay active in the hair?

 It's important to note:

- Ammonia acts quickly and its primary role in hair products (like hair color) is to open the hair cuticle for the chemical process (like color deposit or lightening) to occur.

- Once the hair is thoroughly rinsed and the pH is rebalanced, the chemical reaction should cease. Ammonia itself doesn't "stay active" in the hair; however, its effects, such as the altered hair structure, can persist.

- Residual odors might linger, but these do not indicate ongoing chemical activity. Proper ventilation during the service and a thorough washing process usually address this.

Removing ammonia effectively from hair after a chemical service, despite its molecular weight, involves a thorough rinsing and cleansing process. Here's how you can do it:

1. Thorough Rinsing:

- Begin with a thorough rinse using lukewarm water. This helps to remove the bulk of the ammonia and any other chemicals present. Ammonia, despite its molecular weight, is soluble in water, which aids in its removal.

2. Multiple Shampoos:

- Use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo for the initial wash. Lather and rinse thoroughly.

- Depending on the intensity of the chemical service, a second or even third shampooing might be necessary to ensure all ammonia residue is removed.

3. Conditioning:

- After shampooing, apply a conditioner to help restore the hair's natural pH balance, as ammonia is alkaline and can disrupt this balance.

4. Final Rinse:

- Finish with a final rinse, possibly with cooler water, to help close the hair cuticles.

HOW WE WASH | CHEMICAL SERVICES

Preparations:

We recommend using gloves for chemical washes, because of this, some stylists are not sure if they can feel if the product is still there. With practice and intention, this can be learned.

Always test the water on your forearm for the temp before you apply it to your client.

Explain to the client that the chemical wash is different from typical haircut washes. You need to ensure every amount of chemical product is safely removed and you will need them to at times adopt a posture that will assist you, the relaxing massage will happen once the chemical is removed.

How many times have you shot your clients in the ear with water? We have all done it!

Keep a clean towel near in case this happens to you and act quickly to sponge that up. It can be very uncomfortable for clients and many will not tell you how uncomfortable they are.

Tip* Place the free palm of your hand's pinky side on the side of the client's hairline, over the ear to guide the water away from the ear into the basin, blocking the ear from water, doing this creates a barrier and assists in getting the hairline clean without filling your client's ears with chemical water.

Let's Wash!

Start by rinsing your chemical out before adding any chemicals, or shampoos.

Here is what helped me wash better and applies to all types of wash basins.

Having the client maneuver a bit during the wash ensures not only their comfort but the stylist's as well. Being hunched over people multiple times a day is exhaustive on the body. Let's make it as smooth and comfortable as possible!

Start with the hard parts so they are not forgotten.

Think *nape * *crown* *behind ears* *parietal ridges*

Ask the client to turn their head towards you (your belly).

Scoop that nozzle against their nape and bring it behind the ears and up on the hairline, always directing the flow of water into the sink, using the palm of your hand to block water from going where it shouldn't. Scrub with the hand not holding the nozzle, use the nozzle to gently massage and blast the chemical off the scalp. *Some nozzles allow you to grip it in a way that still allows you to move the fingers to massage.

Then ask the client to turn the opposite way (away from you) as they do that, scoop the nozzle under their head, again getting at that nape, and cradle their neck with your free hand, this will in effect block the water from shooting down their back. * Always properly drape and cape your client for extra protection.

Always keep the nozzle against the scalp or pointed into the sink. If you lose control of the hose immediately shut off the water.

Continue rinsing and repeat the same steps for that side.

I typically spend 2 minutes on each side just rinsing behind the ears, off the hairline, and parietal ridges.

Ask the client to turn the central position. Then start rinsing the crown, and gently scrub/ massage.

Once the water runs clear (no chemical chunkiness or suds in the basin) you are ready to shampoo.

RINSE COMPLETE

Rinse the gloves you are wearing, stop the water, and pump cleansing agent for washing on gloves and massage into the hair.

Repeat the same steps of washing above.

WASH ONE COMPLETE

Rinse with the same steps as above.

Repeat cleanser and steps.

WASH TWO COMPLETE

Rinse and ensure there are no suds or products left in the basin.

RINSE COMPLETE

Inspect hairline, behind ears, nape, parietal ridges, and crown. Is the scalp clean? If not, repeat and concentrate on areas where the product is left behind.

Now here's where you can provide a relaxing experience for your guest. Use your conditioner as a vessel for your massage. I typically like to give my clients 5 minutes in this state and let the conditioner do its magic. I always ask the client if their neck and back are comfortable. Some sinks are unbearable to be washed in and clients pray the massage outweighs the pain their neck and back are in. Always support and cradle the neck to the occipital.

RINSE CONDITIONER OUT

END OF WASH

I can't stress this enough, always follow the specific instructions provided with the chemical product along with their MSDS, if those at any time conflict with each other, look to the MSDS recommendation, it usually offers more factual safety directions. Manufacturers typically provide guidelines on how to safely and effectively remove the product from hair and interactions to be avoided, if they don't have those we recommend just not using it and reporting to the company that you are uncomfortable with products that don't take into consideration a stylist's safety when working with it.

We work with a variety of hair lengths, densities, and textures. No appointment time is the exact same because of this. So we recommend offering a consultation appointment where you can get a scope of work and learn about the client's hair goals, by doing so you can outline and estimate how much product and time you will need and which techniques you will use to achieve the desired goal. You can estimate the total appointment time length and cost from the consultation. This prep work helps you have a smooth safe service that doesn't force you into unreasonable time constraints. We recommend charging for this consultation as that is what most trades practice.

 Hey, guess what? We have a consultation workshop with a guide and templates to assist you in this process coming for ya in January 2024!

Tahhhh-tawww for now!

Xx Whit, a Hair Hugger