DO NOT HEAT

A deep dive into product use contradictions that all stylists should be aware of. A seriously jaw-dropping, head-spinning article you should take some time processing...

According to most product makers' MSDS recommendations, we should NOT heat our professional hair products. This article will discuss the many inconsistencies in safety recommendations for products that hair stylists use every day on clients. It will also give some safety recommendations based on OSHA recommendations.

I have to say this is one of the wildest things I came across in researching chemicals we use in the salon, and not just for hair dye, but for styling products, shampoos, and conditioners... By the end of this article you may be saying it should have been called, do not heat, do not breathe, do not touch. I can promise you that you will learn something you didn't know before from this article.

Heat has been established as a tool, a friend, and it seems like a completely normal part of the salon working environment. We heat these products up left, right, and center! When we process them under a 'heat processor', wash them out with hot water, dry them into our hair, and when we finish with an iron.

The hair industry has perfected ways to heat chemicals to accelerate their processes and effects despite the recommendations of the product makers' safety recommendations. Most of us get on board with it because it is advertised to us that it will make our lives easier behind the chair. And we reason, why would they be able to sell it if it wasn't safe? This is how I use to reason, and blind trust was my guide.

Did You Know?

Salon product makers do not test their formulas for safety before they go to market, they make sure it's a stable product that will effectively give you the result they are promising, in the most expedited way possible. Shiny hair, smooth hair, curly hair, lighter hair up to 8 levels, or darker hair in 15 mins. You can have it all!

But at what expense?

So if they do not test their products before going to market where does the safety information come from?

Many companies gather existing MSDS's of the individual chemical ingredient components of their product mixture to create their own MSDS. They then cite the effects of that individual chemical and useful information, but the complete mixture of the product, that we use in the salon on ourselves, and clients are not tested for acute and chronic effects.

Under Regulatory information in a Davines MSDS for Love Conditioner, it gives us a preview of how companies avoid having their complete mixtures tested, and how they transfer responsibility for health to the hair salon/ stylist / buyer of product.

Here are some examples...

"Finished cosmetic products are specifically excluded from the scope of Community legislation on dangerous substances and mixtures (Regulation (EC) 1272/2008) and from provisions of Title IV of Regulation ( EC ) 1907/2006 . If from risk assessment it is necessary to activate health surveillance, the employer must appoint a competect physician." - Davines MSDS Love Conditioner

This is one confusing paragraph. I need to point out that Davines instructions for use frequently contradict their safety data sheets recommended correct product use.

"This sheet does not replace instructions of use. All the information and instructions in this sheet are based on current state of knowledge (indicated in date on this sheet) and they are exclusively provided for handling and correct product use and for any intervention in case of emergency. The above chemical-physical properties have the exclusive purpose of describing the product from safety point of view and they do not intended to guarantee any specific characteristic ." -Davines MSDS Love Conditioner

Pssssst* You can report your reactions to these products by calling the number at the top of the products MSDS. Product makers will not reformulate their products with safe ingredients unless reactions are reported. EPA says there are more than 85,000 chemicals on the market now and there's no way to track their usage.

Use at your own risk!

MSDS and instructions on packaging often contradict each other so it is best to check both.

Now, I want to show some examples in MSDS where it says to not heat the chemical mixture/ product and some other conditions you should be aware of. I have highlighted the portions to pay particular attention to anything in red text are my comments, they are not a part of the MSDS.

This is from Kevin Murphy Heated Defense SDS which says to avoid elevated temperatures...

This is for Davines Melu Heat Shield

Ok, those are just two examples of styling products that are marketed for heat protection, but shouldn't be heated according to their own safety recommendations.

Now, what about chemicals we use to alter hair color or texture?

I just have to ask, if we are not supposed to heat one of the ingredients that are cited, should we be heating a mixture of multiple do not heat ingredients or chemicals that shouldn't be mixed together?

CONTRADICTIONS

Here is an example of Redken's MSDS for their developer and flash lift bonder inside.

To activate flash lift you have to use a developer (catalyst), yet the developer chemical says specifically it should NOT be mixed with any other chemicals...

NOTE THE HAZARD STATEMENT that Flash Lift should not be heated, yet many use heat processing to speed up the lifting process.

Also, while writing this post I noticed these glove instructions from Redken's own website contradict the MSDS Glove recommendation, which is chemical-resistant gloves...

This says disposable gloves.

Psst* I don't know why they do not have a glove standard recommendation cited in the MSDS, but we have some recommendations for safer ones in our glove article here and explain much more about the glove standards.

And then at the end of the MSDS, there is this disclaimer that transfers liability to the stylist:

Do they even know what proper use is? It is unclear since they do not define it anywhere and give advice that contradicts their MSDS.

I'll go ahead and say we need to also take into account the many "bond protectors" additives that have come along in the last 10 years. There is no study anyone can point me to where those have been evaluated for safety, and really how could they when the additives are advertised that they can be used with a broad selection of hair chemicals?

HERE'S A SNIPPET OF REDKEN'S MSDS FOR THEIR BOND ADDITIVE, WHICH SHOULDN'T BE HEATED AND IS INCOMPATIBLE WITH ORGANIC COMPOUNDS, AND OXIDIZERS.

AND WHEN YOU HEAT IT UP IT MAY PRODUCE CARBON AND HYDROCARBONS.

But what if the product is advertised as natural and you are still reacting?

It could be the fragrance in the product...

Fragrance in hair products is proprietary, and product makers do not need to disclose their proprietary blends, which is where many product manufacturers put the icky stuff.

Synthetic chemical parfum/fragrances are sometimes used to enhance natural essential oil fragrances, so be aware that many companies use this practice and still call their products non-toxic, or low-toxic, advertising heavily that it is a "natural" products with essential oils in them, leaving out the fact that it still has synthetic fragrance in it.

NATURAL & ORGANIC DOES NOT EQUAL SAFE

I just need to say this, even essential oils can be toxic to humans and animals, as they are chemical compounds, in a concentrated form. It is always important to check the safety information, intended use, and MSDS of the chemical you are working with or consuming. *pssst Eden botanicals have SDS for their essential oils if you can't find information on one check them out! * not an affiliate link.

Did you know?

Formaldehyde is not synthetic, it's natural. An organic compound. But it is dangerous when heated and inhaled. A product can have formaldehyde in it and still be called "natural".

There are just so many misunderstood terms used when you are on this journey, and that's why I want to bring out some terms we frequently associate with safety.

Natural, or organic does not mean safe.

So let's focus on the product, or ingredients' safety. Let's get into the habit of checking the MSDS, ask more often, and then research, if it is safe to heat up. To put on skin? Will it cause eye or lung damage? Reproductive harm? Leukemia? Bladder, brain, breast, or prostate cancer? Has anyone else had adverse effects from using this product?

THE POLL

A few years ago I took a poll on my social media platforms to get some stylist feedback on symptoms they were experiencing in the salon atmosphere. I suspected something was happening during the blow-drys because of what I observed and myself felt due to the hair care products being heated up in the environment.

Over 90% of stylists had a spike of anxiety and many other symptoms, like nausea, fatigue, dizziness, headache, shaking, confusion, and overwhelm during the blowdry part of the service.

I know, it shocked me too how many of us were experiencing these symptoms. These symptoms were accelerated in environments where many stylists were working on clients at the same time.

Personally, this has happened to me for years behind the chair. I have always questioned why at my favorite part of the service, where I can see the finish line, and the eagerness of the client to see the finished creation, I get intense anxiety and confusion? Like to the point where I don't even care if that client pays for their service, I just need to be done.

These are symptoms of toxicity, and I was reacting every time I worked on them. And I didn't get used to it, over time these symptoms got to the point where I couldn't manage them and I would have to leave work early or miss it entirely because I wasn't recovered from the previous work day.

I know I am not alone. I know many stylists that struggle with feeling unwell the entire time at work. I know many sick stylists that management wants to paint as being flakey, or emotional, but in reality, many of the symptoms of toxicity could cause a person to act differently, not in ways they choose. Their body is just trying to protect them, by getting them to avoid the danger it experiences working in the salon. I just wanted to touch on that because something I regularly see in the industry is incredibly toxic and judgmental relationships with staff and management, but I believe when you can have more insight on what someone is struggling with, why they act certain ways, relate to it yourself, you can be more sympathetic and look for solutions to support a human, rather than shame or exile them.

When we have this knowledge we can support each other to mitigate and eliminate the toxicity in the salon working environment.

HOW CAN YOU MITIGATE DANGEROUS VOCs IN THE SALON?

None of these are in order of priority, because they are equally important to protect yourself, or your staff.

REDUCE YOUR SYNTHETICS USED IN THE ENVIRONMENT

Go through all the products you work with MSDS and evaluate the risks of using them and if there is an alternative hair product that is safer and more sustainable.

IDENTIFY HOW PRODUCTS ARE BEING USED

Is it meant to be heated up? Does the MSDS or any labels site any safety information? When is it being heated? How many people in salon notice shifts in the way they feel during the time chemicals are being heated in the environment? What other products are being used and layered on the hair? What shampoo, conditioner, or mask was used in conjunction with the service?

Did you know that some hair products should not be used at the same time for safety reasons? Even within the same line there exist products that shouldn't be used in the same styling session.

For example, Davines oi oil MSDS has a section at the top that says MIXTURES TO AVOID.

This has been mind-blowing to me. Stylists use so many hair care products, and many layer multiple lines sometimes in one service, this is a practice that product companies teach as necessary for good hair. At the Aveda institute, we were taught that clients need a minimum of 3 styling products all the way up to 6 and how to sell them to them, we were docked points on our grade if we didn't use or sell a product to every guest we worked on. I had my hands in hair products for 12 hours a day. I assure you, no one needs a 6 styling product system in their hair to have great hair, using that much haircare on someone and pressuring them to buy it, and having hairdressers become their pushers is just evidence of the mentality of the beauty industry which is born from commercialism and overlooks the human beings and earth being affected negatively. This industry is far from meeting the logical, ethical, or environmental standards they flaunt.

WHAT IS THE SAFEST WAY TO WORK WITH "POTENTIALLY" TOXIC PRODUCTS?

I know this article is mainly about not heating products but I need to include another route of exposure, and its the step before a stylist heats the styling product:

Skin Contact

Targeted Organ Damage

Wash your hands immediately after you have had styling, shampoo, and conditioning products on your hands, or wear gloves while styling to avoid sensitization and absorption of the product. Always wear gloves to wash out chemicals.

Got a funny taste in your mouth when you style hair?

Many stylists complain of a metallic or funny taste that happens when they handle different styling products. Your skin is your largest organ, and touching such chemicals causes your body to absorb them into your bloodstream.

It just is a good idea to wash your hands after touching the products used, especially because most stylists are working with multiple clients a day and are absorbing these products at higher rates than what is considered under "normal conditions for use" for the intended consumer, which is the client, not the stylist.

I wash my hands after I use products that are marketed as non-toxic. Even ones marketed as non-toxic we have noted reactions with.

VENTILATION

Many MSDS mention having adequate ventilation as a requirement for safe use.

An open window or door will not cut it. I highly recommend investing in an OSHA-approved system.

A chemical source capture hood is an incredible safety tool. It is 100% necessary in the salon environment. You can roll that thang up to your breathing areas and it will literally suck that harmful heated-up chemical away from your airways, and your client's breathing area too!

STEAM INHALATION

Have mercy, the washing basin is one of the most dangerous spots in a salon.

How many times have you been affected by steam inhalation, the off-gassing of a freshly mixed toner, or another chemical making you tear up or cough? Every MSDS I have read concerning hair color chemicals say WILL cause eye damage, so protect your peepers! I know my vision got significantly worse after hair school, no doubt from my many hours spent above and over the wash basin mixing and applying an active chemical, and then washing it out with hot water that creates steam.

If your hair-washing area is small and doesn't offer sufficient clean air, roll the capture unit up to the basin to suck all the heated-up, steamy chemicals away from you and your client.

OFFER SERVICES THAT ARE FOR THE THOUGHTFUL MINIMALIST

Many humans are looking for simple, safe ways to care for and style their hair. We loved cutting clients' hair in ways that would allow for easy airdrying with a minimal styling product they don't have to heat. Opt for hand-styling. Hand-styling doesn't always require you to dry the hair more than 80%. You style the hair in a way that lets the air drying do most of the work, with minimal product. Your hairdresser brain is most likely yelling "nobody gonna pay for wet hair!"

I tell you, they will, and they will pay more for it because they get a real lesson in how to style their hair with minimal effort and less time with a blow dryer and irons in their hands. Clients want to be free, they want to feel good without so much work and products. FREE THEM! And free them from products that will give them adverse health effects.

As we turned The Parlor into a safety test salon we went from product lines like Kevin Murphy, Davines, Redken, Joico, Wella, Schwarzkopf, loreal, and R+Co and a few other things we tried to New wash by Hairstory for the back bar, and Cult + King styling products, and a few loved items from boutique lines.

Honestly, this was such a special change. We felt so much better working around those lines than the previous ones. Frequently guests commented that our space smelled more like a spa than a salon. I personally only felt sick when I didn't use a chemical source capture hood unit.

Our salon felt so unique getting rid of the typical products you would see at the salon, products you can even buy at Sephora now. We were so glad to have something to work with and offer guests that is safe and beautiful, and that supported smaller businesses that care a great deal about the environment. Also, I must share my own experience that the companies I chose to work with were/are extremely supportive of me, they never treated me like I was nothing, and always have treated me with a lot of dignity. I never was treated as well when I would interact with suppliers, ambassadors, or reps of products.

I realize much of this article may feel like being hit with a few bricks, I was in legitimate shock when I first went through these. Knowing this information liberated me in many ways after I processed it. I finally saw the value in my services and the need to adjust the price and the way I was doing the service because the service was hazardous to my health acute and long term. Knowing this information has helped me educate clients about this, and they sincerely value that knowledge and feel safer and happier with their service because they know I'm doing my best to mitigate or eliminate harm with these chemicals, which the manufacturers don't show you how to handle and use safely.

Ok let's wrap this up, tbh this has been majorly shaved down, this goes so deep, and I am trying to simplify something that is far from simple. Thanks for sticking it out to the end of the article if you made it this far! I'd love to tell you more about why it is so hard to get an MSDS at the "beauty" supplier. Till next time!

Check out our safety gear page for the hair hugs recommendations with direct links for more info.

Xx Hair Huggers!